With the OEM Calsonic radiator I had water temps nearing 100C just on a spirited hill climb.
With the Koyo 53mm radiator it never exceeded 95C on a track day with ambient temperatures at around 20C and the bottom tank was only lukewarm.
I'm running mine with the OEM clutch fan and shroud, Nismo 1.3bar radiator cap and OEM 76.5C thermostat (can't justify 100$ for a nismo one when OEM can be had for $30 from Nissan).
The build quality is fantastic, and fitment was a breeze. All the mounting holes lined up perfectly with the OEM shroud. All mounting points lined up perfectly with the radiator support panel/top mounts. I just made a little extra clearance at the areas on the chassis where the corners of the radiator was situated so there was no metal/metal contact (crucial) - bit of hammering here and there.
Also I cut my hoses about 1cm shorter so that it wouldn't kink when fitted.
It is also a good idea to check for stray current in the cooling system before/after you change the radiator.
A good quality radiator (and cap!) is always a good mod for any track going car.
ReplyDeleteTell me, how would you check for stray currents in the cooling system?
Cheers
- Darkhorse
You'd have to use a high sensitivity multimeter (0.05V) or better yet an analogue volt meter to test for stray current in the cooling system.
ReplyDeleteJust by having the negative lead of the multimeter placed on the negative post of the battery and the positive lead dipped into the coolant at the filler neck of the radiator (without touching any part of the actual radiator) you can test for current.
Stray current may exist due to a bad earth in the thermo fans, the radiator touching the body of the vehicle, etc. So it is imperative that the radiator makes no metal to metal contact with the body of the vehicle - every point of contact must be insulated.